Sunday, March 13, 2011

Picture Perfect

I returned to the future site of the Sir John Wilson School on Friday. Members of the school community and other supporters gathered to learn about the plans and bless the site. The program took place under a colorful canopy similar to the ones used in village wedding ceremonies. The bamboo poles used to support the structure were wrapped in green, red, blue, white and yellow fabric. Tassels dangled lazily from the geometric floral designs sewn on the colorful ceiling, and triangular cloth panels hung from the edges of the tent. The humidity level hovered around 80%. The air didn’t stir. There was no escaping the heat as we tried - discretely - to dab the sweat from our faces.

I realize that by Bangladeshi standards the heat we’ve experienced so far is nothing compared to what it will by in a few weeks. But what’s interesting and different about the temperature here is that, at times, I feel as though it’s coming from the inside out. The heat here settles into the buildings and shadows, and though you’re not in direct sunlight, your body feels as though it might as well be. The people who live here are used to it and as such their reactions to the heat range from non-existent to very mild. Due to this, there have been a few occasions where I’ve felt compelled to ask, “is anyone else hot, or is it just me?” There was no need to ask this question on Friday, because looking around I could see that everyone else was melting too.

Prior to the ceremony, I went back to the village where I’d taken pictures with the photo club on Wednesday. Armed with their photos and a translator (a member of the school staff), I entered the family compound. The kids recognized me and helped to gather the rest of the family. They were surprised and pleased to see me, and absolutely thrilled by the pictures. (Though you wouldn’t know if from the group photo - it seems Bangladeshis take "formal" group shots very seriously). The little boy who’d cried when I took his photo on Wednesday, couldn’t wipe the smile off his face when I handed him his picture. Unfortunately I couldn’t make everyone happy. Those who hadn’t been there on Wednesday seemed very disappointed when they did not receive a picture. Nonetheless, I was invited for tea and breakfast. In the interest of my digestive health and because the program was about to start - I skillfully declined with help from the Bangla speaking staff member.


Walking back to the site, I snapped a few more pictures. We were informed of the large market/bazaar that takes place every Thursday, so I’ll be back in the weeks to come. 

In other news, I’ve met a cockroach larger than any I’d ever seen before. He was roughly the length of my palm and he had wings. I’m very thankful that his attempts to take flight while in my presence were unsuccessful. Stifling a yelp, I asked for assistance in removing him from the room we were in. During the removal process, I was calmly informed that they don’t bite.

Though I doubted that I’d ever be able to do it, I am also happy to report that I’ve officially slept through three morning calls to prayer.

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Simply Happy

Today was one of those days that started off well and just kept getting better.

The Tulips were in great spirits this morning. Sarah provided some cards with letters and pictures of words that start with that letter. Without prompting, the children were sorting them by letter – zebra and zipper were in a row together, as were, lemon, leaf, and lion. Sooner or later, all the cards and all the kids were on the mat with me.

To cheer up Mehjabin, who was saddened by the fact that she had to share her cards, I started to sing a song. I was inspired by the The Wheels on the Bus and Ramisa, who was holding a card with the letter E and a picture of an egg on her head. “The egg on Ramisa’s head cracks open and drips, open and drips. The egg on Ramisa’s hat cracks open and drips. All day long.” The song proved to be a hit. “Pick me! Pick me!” and “Me next! Me next!” they shouted as they jumped up and down holding different cards on their heads. With parrots, fish, lions, queens, lemons and oranges on the children’s heads my creativity was challenged. Yet, no matter how silly phrases I came up with were, they loved it! Eventually it was time to start the real lesson, but the positive tone had been set.

In a bed of Tulips
Excitement was once again at a high when the kids made their very own binoculars. Based on their enthusiastic response to the project, you’d have thought that the binoculars worked or at least that they’d been constructed of more than just two stapled-together toilet paper roles. In fact the kids were so thrilled that after they painted the binoculars and we set them aside to dry, we could hardly tear the kids away - they were literally watching the paint dry.

I’m enjoying every moment with the Tulips and really trying to soak up their energy and bask in their smiles. They’ve hired a more permanent assistant teacher for their class and I’ll be moving over to the other building to assist with Class 1 Starfish starting Sunday. So sadly tomorrow will be my last day with them. I’m sure the Starfish will be great too, but I’m going to miss my Tulips!

In the afternoon, I joined the photography club on a field trip. Lead by Ripon Sir, they were taking a bus to the future site of the Sir John Wilson School (the land’s been purchased and the building plans are making their way through the bureaucratic system at the speed of frozen molasses). We met in the art room at 1:30 PM and we were scheduled to leave at 1:40. In true Bengali fashion we boarded the bus at 1:50 and departed just before 2 PM.

Shop keeper along the road.
To get to the site we ambled through narrow streets lined with vegetable stalls, bicycle and rickshaw repair shops, pharmacies, butchers, and barbers. The bus did not have air-conditioning, and all the windows were open. The smell of exhaust, slightly decayed fruit, and fresh fish wafted through the windows. Three large fans installed on the ceiling sucked in the scents and swirled them around. The kids were wide-eyed. “This is how we’re going to have to get to school?!” The adults all responded by pointing out all the pros – every morning you’ll get to go on a tour, you can go shopping after school, and just think of how much more exciting photo club will be!

We arrived at the site - a silt peninsula off the main street, which was wide enough so that one bus and a rickshaw could just barely pass each other. The local children started to gather as we took a quick glimpse of the land. With the kids following us, we set off down the tree-lined, dirt road.

When I rounded the corner, I saw two women, dressed in saris, standing at a gate and watching us. I approached them and asked if I could take their picture. My question really consisted of me pointing at my camera, smiling and saying, “picture?” while moving my finger up and down pretending to click. They responded with the famous Bengali head tilt/nod. I took their photo and showed it to them. They smiled and then, to my surprise, the older lady beckoned me to follow her.

Stepping through the gate I found myself inside their family village/compound. She quickly gathered what were presumably her grandchildren, situated them in front of a sari that was hung to dry, stood behind them and waited for their picture to be taken. Happily I obliged. Within a few minutes more of her family members had gathered.

Using the little Bangla I know, I started to converse with them. “Abnar nam ki?” (What is your name?” Amar nam Andrina (My name is Andrina). They were delighted! I was invited to step into one of the rooms and look around – as with the village I’d visited in Chuadanga, everything was spotless. I gestured around and said, “sunder” (nice). They smiled. When it was time to go I waved and said “donobat” (thank you).

The school is holding a function at the future site on Friday. Before then I plan to print the pictures I took so that I can bring them to the village when we go back.

In the grand scheme of life here in Bangladesh, my day was rather ordinary. But captivated by the simple pleasures in life, it’s left me smiling and simply happy.  

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Hollywood, Dhaka, Bangladesh

“I didn’t bring my Marilyn costume,” I replied when Taheera first invited me to the Hollywood Ball. When I saw her at the American Club a few weeks later, she was surrounded by Ball attendees and selling tickets left and right. Without a clue about who I’d dress up as, go with, or what it would be like, I agreed to buy a ticket as well. If nothing else it would be a unique experience.

Once the decision to go was made, the real work started. I needed a dress. I have one at home that I really like, in fact I like it so much I was planning to have another one made here. If I found a Marilyn wig, I could wear this new dress and be all set. Perfect! I asked my mom to take pictures of the dress so that I could take them to Shaheem the tailor, and went out to buy some fabric. Standing in front of the rows and rows of silks and Sopura, I was overwhelmed. Did I want a dusty lavender dress? Should I go mauve? Maybe turquoise? I left without buying anything.

It was Saturday afternoon when Ann and I headed to the tailor. I needed the dress by Thursday. Shaheem advised me on fabric options and told me that as long as I brought the material by Sunday it could be done. Ann and I went back to Sopura and settled on a pale rose silk.

That night I had a change of heart. The wig would be difficult to find and even if I did find one, in this heat, it would be uncomfortable. I was starting to think that Taheera was right, I should just use my natural hair. But who to be? Someone suggested Audrey Hepburn, and though I’d never even seen Breakfast at Tiffany’s, I was all of a sudden in love with the idea.

I brought pictures of the long black dress she wears as the peers into the Tiffany’s window during the opening scene of the movie, to the tailor the next day. He suggested a fabric and said it would be done by Thursday. We scheduled a fitting for Tuesday and I was on my way.

Going to the Ball as Audrey Hepburn/Holly Golightly without ever seeing the movie just didn’t seem right. So I went to the video store up the street and purchased the DVD for $1. Though the movement of the characters mouths and their voices were out of sync for the majority of the film, I enjoyed it.

Now that the character study was done, I needed accessories – a tiara, cigarette holder, and earrings (the pearls I already had). The tiara I was told would be very difficult, if not impossible to find. I secured a back up from one of the school staff – it would do, but it just wasn’t quite right. After school on Thursday the day before the Ball, I headed down to Gulshan I shopping mall. On my way I stopped at a party store where with guarded enthusiasm I bought a very kitschy kids tiara. Again it would do, but it wasn’t perfect. The Gulshan I mall is much larger and much more Bangladeshi than the one I’d previously gone to (where Mr. Baker is) – many more shops, sights, and smells. I strolled through the tightly packed alleyways when a little stand caught my eye. I went over to look at some of the costume jewelry that was displayed and to my surprise there were a whole bunch of tiaras in the case. I pounced on it and a pair of pearl drop earrings immediately. I was so excited I completely forgot about the cigarette holder. (We fashioned it using paper, spray paint, and a receipt on Friday morning).

By Friday afternoon the dress, shoes, accessories were ready. I went to Nelo’s to get my hair done. No more than 15 minutes after they started, I was out the door. The amount of teasing they did to my hair was mind-blowing, but the real miracle was that they managed to pile all my hair on the top of my head. Total cost under $5.

Audrey, Jay Gatsby, and a lovely lady from the cast of Mad Men, arrived at 3rd Annual Dhaka Women’s Association Hollywood Ball at 7 PM. Following the red carpet, we entered the reception area where cardboard cutout celebrities mingled with a bunch of dressed up expats and Bengalis. Champagne was being passed around and after the cocktail hour ended, the doors opened and we were lead into the ballroom.

The decorations were great! Fabric and twinkle lights cascaded from the ceiling, red table clothes and matching chair were set up, large Oscars flanked the Gone with the Wind movie poster on stage, and live video of the attendees was streaming to big screens at the front of the room.

Dinner was served and the entertainment began - music performers, magicians, comics and dancers took to the stage. For those of you who have seen Dirty Dancing – Havana Nights, the atmosphere reminded me a lot of the party the main character attends with her parents. As if that wasn’t enough, one of the dancing numbers was to a song from that movie! Once the talent show ended, everyone headed to the dance floor. The evening was a lot of fun!


In other, non-Ball-related, news:

The Bangladeshi postal service works. I received a letter from Flynn last week (Thank you Flynni Boy!) and it only took one week to get here!

I have re-booked my flight home via Thailand. Carly will meet me there and together we’ll travel around the country for three weeks, so I won’t be seeing the US again until mid-May. Very exciting!

The bad news: Bangladeshi cricket team lost to the West Indies, posting the 11th lowest cricket score ever recorded. The good news: I’m actually starting to understand the game!

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Wild Zen

Bangladesh is a country full of contradictions. From my bedroom window I can listen to the sounds of birdsong and feel as though I’ve been dropped in the middle of a jungle and moments later be ripped back into reality when the horns start honking and the engines start revving. Walking the street you pass a well-dressed lady in an exquisite sari, adorned with jewels and a few steps later a beggar whose body is so crippled that he has no hope of ever working again. On the way back from school you’ll see homes made of tarp held together with sticks, and just a few blocks down a sprawling mansion. And, as Mike pointed out, the traffic is absolute chaos with drivers and pedestrians disregarding road signs and traffic lights, yet you rarely see a fender bender and cars are surprisingly undented (the local buses are an exception – they look like banged up tins). The contradictory nature of this country struck me again yesterday.

Mike and Ann belong to a boat consortium. The Peacock, the boat, is currently being repaired. When they invited me along to go check on the progress, I imagined that we’d be going to a harbor and looking at a fairly ordinary boat. I was wrong.

Silt boat
We left school around 2 PM and headed towards the “harbor”. Near the airport we turned off the main road and crossed some railway tracks on which vendors had set up shop on pieces of cloth. Mind you this wasn’t along the tracks but literally over them (yes, the tracks are still used). Then we lurched through a bazaar similar to the others I’ve described. We wound through these narrow roads and finally made it out into the countryside. Just a few years ago this countryside didn’t exist. People have gradually been claiming the river areas and pumping silt into them creating vast expanses of sandy ground where the river and rice paddies used to be. This causes severe problems during the monsoon season when run off from the Himalayas causes flooding - with every inch of river that is taken away there is less space for the water to go. The speed bumps we were going over were in facts large pipes that had been laid across the road and were pumping silt to fill up another part of the waterway.

The “harbor” parking lot was a local school’s field and the “harbor” was really a muddy riverbank. But waiting there was a floating meditation room. We stepped onto the Wild Thing, which would take us to the Peacock. Colorful pillows padded the deck and served as back rests along the sides. A thatched canopy provided shade. We pushed off from the shore and Ann unpacked the tea, which we enjoyed with some delicious cookies.

As we chugged along the river at about 5 miles an hour, one thing became very clear immediately. The Wild Thing, with its zen feel and leisurely pace, was not very wild at all. Clusters of people waited on either side of the river. They were waiting for the ferry, a large canoe, to take them and their belongings (bags of cement, vegetables, goats and other goods) across. A man napped under an umbrella in his canoe. Just outside of Dhaka and away from the bazaar, life seemed to be moving at a much slower pace.

As we neared the Peacock, we noticed a group of boats all stuck together in the middle of the river. The captain informed us that, weighed down with silt, all of these boats had run aground. Thankfully we’d arrived at our destination because getting around them would have been impossible.

The Peacock was on the beach. Tilted on its side, it was missing a deck, had holes in its side and looked as though it had just been unearthed during an archeological dig. Yet I could see how glorious it was and would be. Mike, Ann, and Karen walked around advising the repairman in charge while I sat back and took it all in.

“When will you be done?” they asked.
“In one month,” he replied.

I hope he’s right, because a month from now I’ll still be here. 

The pristine, green rice paddies surrounded us as we made our way back through the inky waters. The river is literally black because cloth and leather factories upstream dump all the chemicals and dies into the river. We finished up our gin and tonics (drinking in a dry country) just before we got back on land. 

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Khulna by Motorcycle

“We’re going to take a tour of Khulna,” said Ashib.
“Great!” I replied.
“By motorcycle,” he added.
“OoooK.”
“Any questions?”
“Is there a helmet?”
“Yes. For the driver.”

I was aware I’d be taking a tour of the city, but a motorcycle was not the mode of transportation I had imagined.

After changing from a skirt into pants, I apprehensively climbed onto the back of the Honda Hero.

Weaving through traffic into spaces that moments ago hadn’t existed and seconds later would disappear we made our way to the center of town. All the while I’m worrying that I may leave a knee cap behind on the wheel of a rickshaw, break my elbow on the side of a bus, or worse hit the ground without a helmet. The exhaust stung my eyes and throat and I could feel the heat of it on my legs. My toes were cramping trying to hold on to the footrests. I was not relaxed.

I tried to keep track of where we were going and how to get back - make a right at the Great Wall paint shop, exit the roundabout to the right, head left by the main traffic circle. It was no use. After viewing the dark banks of the river, being trapped amongst rickshaw drivers, men pulling bags of cement on carts, and fellow motorbike riders at a train crossing, and then ducking through alleys I had no idea where I was.

The streets were organized like the inside of a department store. There was a block dedicated exclusively to the sale of bicycle. A narrow road had nothing but gold jewelers on both sides. Fruit vendors and toy stores had their own sections, and cell phones could be found around the corner.

At one point we ducked into an indoor mall. I thought it might be reasonable to park, but instead we cruised through on wheels - barely squeezing by displays and people.

Over an hour later we made it safely back to the guesthouse. It was time to get my bags and go to the bus. Surprise, surprise! We were getting there by motorcycle. Unenthusiastically I watched as they strapped my roll-aboard suitcase to the back of the bike. Then, wearing my backpack and holding my purse, I squeezed in between the driver and the luggage. At this point I was actually looking forward to the peace of the dusty, mosquito infested bus.

But my bus was delayed. It wouldn’t leave for another four and a half hours and during that time I’d be getting on the bike again.

All that being said, the motorcycle ride and the wait for the bus were the most authentic Bangladeshi experiences I’ve had so far.

Chuadanga

A patchwork of green rolled out from the road. Each piece a unique texture and color – from the soft leaves of the rice paddies to the bristling palms, and the whispering dark green corn stalks to the floppy banana tree leaves. The quilt stretched out for miles in all directions; sewn together by little dirt pathways. This was my real introduction to rural Bangladesh.

I arrived at the Impact-funded hospital in Chuadanga around 6 PM and was greeted by Monowar. We took a very brief tour of the hospital during which he informed me that there was a surgeon in town who was conducting cataract surgeries in the operation theater as we spoke. I was intrigued. I asked whether I could watch.

With approval from the doctor, I was taken down to the theater. I had imagined I’d be sitting and watching the surgery from the other side of a glass partition. As it turned out, the theater was really more of a room and I was going to be in it. I changed into scrubs, which, though clean, were permanently stained, and took my seat in the corner of the room approximately five feet away from the patient.

The surgeon was in the midst of a removing a cataract. Next to the bed, a TV showed a close up of the procedure. The unblinking eye was staring at me. The attendants were speaking to each other in Bangla over the steady beeping of the heart rate monitor. Using cauterization to close the cut in the eye, the doctor wrapped up the surgery. The eye was bandaged, the microcope moved, the patient propped up, and then the nurse helped her off the table. Wait, she was awake this whole time?!

Given the fact that the heart rate had stayed so regular (and the fact that someone was digging around in the person’s eyeball) I had assumed that the patient would be under general anesthesia. “No” I was told, “that would take to long.” In a little over an hour, I witnessed seven surgeries. Each procedure took between 7-10 minutes, with about 3 minutes in between to swap patients and tools.

On the screen the cataract looked very gooey, but to be sure I asked what it really felt like. At the end of the next procedure the surgeon turned to me and dropped the extracted cataract on my bare hand. Reflexively I pulled away and it dropped to the floor. I was slightly appalled. For the rest of the time I held my hand far away from me and made sure not to touch anything (later, I would wash it repeatedly, use hand sanitizer, disinfectant and an anti-bacterial wipe). A cataract, in case you were wondering, feels like a piece of cartilage.

By the time the surgeries came to an end at midnight, 64 patients had been treated. (I left to have dinner long before the end.)

The next day, I received a more extensive tour of the facilities and other Impact projects. First we visited the outpatient area. That morning the resident optometrist was seeing the men and women who had had surgery the previous day. I was there when one man’s bandages were removed. This man, who had been virtually blind in that eye, was now able to correctly identify the letters on the first three lines of the eye chart. Pretty incredible!

Next door to the hospital is the physical therapy department. It is also the place where they produce a wide array of assistive devices – from back braces and crutches to arms and legs. Using plaster a model of the body part that needs to be fit is made. The technicians then use a variety of ingredients including metal, resin, and plastic to create these devices. The process takes three days and is done in house. With the help of the physical therapists, patients learn how to cope with and use their new limbs. People of all ages are able to overcome their disabilities and regain their independence.

While the hospital, physical therapy, and assistive devices help people cope with existing conditions, another mission of Impact is to prevent these ailments. One of the ways they do this is through Mothers’ Clubs. These clubs meet once every month. Each meeting, lead by a community liaison, focuses on a different topic.

The topic at the meeting I attended was vitamins. Mothers, dressed in their vibrant saris, were sitting on mats laid out in a U-shape. The liaison and Monowar were teaching and interacting with the group. The meeting took place outside in an open courtyard area and so I wandered about, taking photos and attempting to talk to the older children, grandparents, and villagers that were around. None of them spoke English and, aside from a few very basic phrases, I don’t speak Bangla – so in the end we just smiled at each other.

Part of being healthy is having a good diet so Impact has created another program – Home Gardens. Participants are provided with instructions on how to create and properly irrigate a garden and are then given the necessary supplies free of cost. Not only does having a home garden provide people with nutritious foods, they are able to save precious money. The women proudly showed us their neatly organized gardens of lettuce, tomatoes, spinach, radishes, carrots, and cabbage.

The last garden we visited was located in a small living community (perhaps a family “compound”) that belonged to a larger village. I was struck by how clean everything was. Though the ground is packed earth and the homes are made of mud with thatched roofs, nothing was out of place and the ground was swept and spotless.

The grandmother greeted us when we arrived. She showed us her garden, which was located in the middle of all the huts, and then took us on a little tour.  Like the moon pulls the tides, I seemed to pull the people. By the time we were wrapping up the tour a substantial group had gathered.

One little boy, perched on the grandmother’s hip, was very shy and refused to look at me. He swung his little fist at anyone who tried to turn his head. So imagine how surprised I was to see his face in our group picture. I showed it to him and for an instant a quick smile flashed across his face before he hid again in the comfort of a familiar shoulder.

Sunday, February 20, 2011

The Sunderban

The Sunderban are the largest continuous mangrove tree forest and Bengali Tiger reserve. They are located in the southern part of the country and spread all the way to the Bay of Bengal. I went to the Sunderban for a two night/three day tour.

The tour started from Khulna. To get to Khulna you can take a plane, a boat, or a bus. Being that it was the cheapest, I opted for the bus option, and so the adventure began…

The Journey

My bus was scheduled to depart Dhaka at 10 PM (call time was 9:45 PM). The bus stop is about 20 minutes from where I’m staying, but given the traffic here we gave ourselves one and a half hours (just in case). We set out from Gulshan II towards Malibagh bus stop at 8:15 PM. The driver warned me that there was traffic, but this was stop-and-go unlike anything I had experienced before. About half an hour before we were supposed to arrive, the driver muttered “we have problem. We have problem.” At first I was unphased by his worry, but as time went by I began to get nervous. I did not ask how much further it was, because I was afraid of what the answer would be. So I sat in the back and tried to stretch time. We got there at 9:46 PM, and in the end it turned out that the bus was stuck in traffic too(go figure) and so we were delayed an hour.

When the bus finally did arrive, we all eagerly got in line to board. The first thing that struck me about the bus when I got on was that the inside looked as though it had just come back from a week at Burning Man. Every surface was covered with a film of dust – the seats, “white” pillows, windows, the crevices along the floorboard, etc. Once I sat down, and moved that dusty pillow so that my head wouldn’t touch it, the second thing I noticed were the mosquitoes. They seemed to be hovering everywhere. Great! I took out my DEET aerosol can and gave myself a good spray down. We left the station and I settled in for what would be, according to the Guide Tours representative, “a minimum seven hour drive.”

After 7 hours, we’d gone a whopping 100 km. We had another 200 km to go. After 10 hours we made our first stop. I was grateful for the chance to get up and stretch my legs. I was less grateful for the gas station bathroom. Without exaggerating it was probably the least fresh bathroom I have ever been in. I’ll spare you the details, but suffice it to say I was thrilled to get out of there and breathe some clean air. While waiting for the bus to refuel, I met a few of the folks that would be joining me on the Sunderban tour. Making small talk, I commented on the lush, green rice paddies that surrounded us and pointed out what a stark contrast it was to dusty Dhaka. One of the men quickly replied, “oh it’s just like Arkansas!” Now I’ve never been to Arkansas, but palm trees and rice paddies is not how I imagine it.

12 hours after leaving Dhaka we arrived in Khulna and boarded the boat. The rest of the tour participants were thrilled to see us - they’d been awaiting our arrival since 6 AM.


Cruising

The shores on the outskirts of the Sunderban were dotted with little fishing villages. Nick, a Canadian who is one month into his two year stint in Dhaka, commented on how the small groupings of huts looked just like the ones he’d seen in Newfoundland. (Again, I’ve never been there, but that wasn’t how I imagined it.) Once we entered the Sunderban we were surrounded by green trees and blue skies (to my surprise it turns out that the skies in some parts of Bangladesh are actually blue!).

There was nothing to obstruct the sun when it set several hours later. The golden light spilled over the water and we all watched from the deck and roof in awe as the sound of camera clicks filled the air. Post-sundown, but before dinner, a drum/song circle was organized by some members of the Bengali TV station crew (they were on board to film a story about the Sunderban). We took turns singing. For lack of any better ideas, but to the delight of the German couple on the cruise, I sang a Swiss kids’ song, “Alli mini äntli” (All my little duckies). Bengalis, it turns out, all know the same Bangla songs. The same, we learned, cannot be said for a group of Americans (plus one Candian). While they sang beautiful, complete songs, we stuttered through the chorus of a few popular American songs yet were never able to sing anything from start to finish. In fact, the Bangladeshis often new more words than we did. Side note, when it comes to American songs, the national favorite is Country Road. Several times over the next few days someone would start it up.

At 6:30 the next morning we set out on the morning patrol. Leaving the big boat behind we climbed into a 30 person canoe. The sky was streaked with brilliant shades of purple and pink as we navigated our way into a smaller river. As the sun continued to rise, the colors changed to soft orange and yellow. Mist rose softly from the surface of the water and all around us you could hear the birds chirping. Bright orange and cobalt blue kingfishers darted through the air, barely visible bright green snakes hid among the trees, and white, graceful egrets flew through the air. It was all very peaceful.

We had lunch back on board before trekking to a beach on the Bay of Bengal. The walk to the beach was not shaded and the sun beat down on us relentlessly. By the time we made it to the Bay, the water was practically shouting our names. While the local women waded in the water wearing their salwaar kameez, the rebellious foreigners took refuge around the bend and, wearing shirts and/or shorts over their swimsuits, went for a dip.

Back on board I had a Bengali breakthrough – my first authentic head nod. The words “yes” and “OK” here are often accompanied by this quick flick of the head. It’s kind of a like a half nod, but to the side. It can also be used as a greeting. In this instance I was responding with OK to someone’s offer for help and without thinking about it utilized this Bengali motion. Very exciting!

The morning of day three we went out on another patrol. This time the focus seemed to be on the people who live in the Sunderban. Throughout the course of the morning, fisherman were setting up nets in rows towards the center of the river. Children’s voices could be heard as they helped their parents. The people who live here are very poor. Most do not own their own boat or net. Rich people from the fishing industry provide these materials to them, and in return receive most, if not all, of the catch. Because these fisherman do not have access to modern modes of communication, they have no way of checking market prices and are often tricked into selling at very low prices. “These people are born here, they live here, and they will die here,” one of the Bengali passengers told me. Most of them will never see anything else.

Leaving the fisherman behind, we headed back to Khulna. Over the roar of the engine you could see and hear sounds of life from the banks – the thud of clothes hitting the ground as the women washed, voices of children at play, and the rattling of wheels.